Friday, June 23, 2017

Persolaise Review: Ylang Ylang from E Coudray (2016) + Initial Thoughts On The Perfume Exhibition At Somerset House


Usually, by the time I get around to writing about a limited edition release, it's as hard to find as a shred of maturity in a Quentin Tarantino movie. So for all I know, Coudray's glorious Ylang Ylang is now conspicuous by its absence in perfumeries and is doing the rounds of the auction sites and the scent-swap communities. Nevertheless, I must bring it to your attention. A re-working of the brand's own Fetiche from 1978, it's the sort of composition that reduces cynical critics to gibbering wrecks and renders us speechless. "Perfumery must look to the future," we tend to say, "there's no point dwelling on the past, we can't keep expecting old brands to produce the sort of thing they made decades ago." But then along comes a retro beauty like this one, and we're forced to scuttle into a corner like toddlers, waiting to be served a portion of our own high-and-mighty words.

Thursday, June 22, 2017

Monday, June 19, 2017

The Zest Of Life - Persolaise On Colognes In The Scented Letter


The latest issue of The Scented Letter - the award-winning magazine of The Perfume Society - contains a piece by yours truly on the current revival of the eau de cologne. With contributions from Christine Nagel, Andy Tauer and Roja Dove, the piece aims to explain why this centuries-old composition is enjoying a resurgence in popularity at this moment in time.

As The Scented Letter is available only to members of The Perfume Society, I can't reveal much more about the article, except to say that it also includes a run-down of a few of my favourite colognes, some of which I've described as follows:

Coiled springs of energy waiting to be unleashed, like scented sprinters soaring towards the finish line.
A feast of citrus blossoms, filled with the hopes, dreams and passions of honeymoon vows.
Clocks slow down. Pulses relax. The globe slips into a siesta gear. And the jolly grapefruit just keeps grinning.

If that's enough to whet your appetite and you aren't already a member of the Society, please click here.

Persolaise

Friday, June 16, 2017

Persolaise Sixty Second Scents: You Or Someone Like You from Etat Libre D'Orange (Caroline Sabas; 2017)


The people at Etat Libre D'Orange have just released another one of their collaboration scents - this time created together with Chandler Burr - and here's my Sixty Second Scents review of it. To watch it on the YouTube site, please click here.

By the way, stay tuned for extended interviews with both Burr and Etienne De Swardt of ELDO.

Persolaise

Wednesday, June 14, 2017

Knowing How To Seduce - Interview With Nathalie Feisthauer On Basenotes

image: Basenotes

At the recent London launch of Aedes De VenustasPelargonium, I managed to interview its creator, Nathalie Feisthauer (Eau Des Merveilles, Honour Man, Putain Des Palaces). Our lively conversation - which covered all sorts of topics from Sophia Grojsman's seduction strategies to the composition of Merveilles - is featured in my latest piece for Basenotes. Please click here to read it.

Persolaise

Monday, June 12, 2017

Father's Day Inspiration - Persolaise Joins The Perfume Pros On YouTube


A short while ago, I was honoured to be invited by the Perfume Pros to join them for a series of videos on their YouTube channel about masculine perfumery. The first of our efforts has now been published, so I'd be delighted if you could take the time to watch it.

If you'd prefer to view it on the YouTube site, please click here.

Persolaise

Friday, June 9, 2017

Perfume Mini-Reviews From Twitter: January to March 2017 [part 2]


Part 2 of my January to March 2017 Twitter mini-review round-up. For part 1, please click here.

Myrrh & Tonka from Jo Malone (Mathilde Bijaoui; 2016)*
Latter comes across as a fuzzy lavender; the former as brown, orange-y baked apples. A shoulder shrug in a bottle.

Baiser Fou from Cartier (Mathilde Laurent; 2017)*
Strange berries and forest fruit over bitter-honey florals and stinging citruses. Whiff of lipstick. Crimson-hued.

Arbolé Arbolé from Hiram Green (Hiram Green; 2016)**
Is it soapy leaves or sweet bubbles floating on a lily pond? Chestnuts? 80s deodorant? It's fun trying to decide.

Thursday, June 8, 2017

Is There Too Much Perfume - Persolaise In Issue 2 of Tauer Mag

image: Tauer Mag

Thanks to my age and background, I have strong memories of 1980s Communist Poland. During those constraining times, if you wanted to buy a car - assuming you had enough money and you'd somehow managed to get yourself on the 18+ month waiting list - the choice was simple. You went for a Fiat 126p, the tinny, two-door, 1970s-born successor to the Fiat 500, with the 'p' at the end of the model number indicating that it was built east of the Iron Curtain. Or you could have a 125p, which gave you two, whole, additional doors. Or, if you were being really reckless with the family fortune, you could order a Polonez, the hatchback which once earned a spot on Jeremy Clarkson's list of the worst vehicles ever. And that was pretty much it. One out of three. Don‘t like any of them? Catch the bus.

I'm delighted to announce that the latest issue of Tauer Mag from Andy Tauer features another contribution from yours truly: a piece considering the question of whether we have too much perfume. The magazine also contains an interview with Lizzie Ostrom about her work on the upcoming perfume exhibition at Somerset House, as well as an account of one of Andy's trips to the US. It's available only in print form; please click here for more info.

Persolaise

Tuesday, June 6, 2017

Scent Of A Bride - Persolaise On Feelunique... & In The Latest Cosmopolitan!

image: Feelunique

My latest piece for Feelunique tackles the topic that always comes up when May sweeps into June: the perfect perfume for a bride. To see my recommendations, please click here.

And on an entirely different note, a couple of quotes from yours truly are to be found within the latest issue of UK's Cosmopolitan in a piece by Lucy Partington about affordable, high-quality scents. You'll find it a few pages after the bare bums. Rush to your nearest corner shop now.

Persolaise

Friday, June 2, 2017

Persolaise Review: Rose Royale from Nicolaï (Patricia De Nicolaï; 2017)


Perfumery is often an exercise in minor variations. Pick a familiar tune. Give it a subtle twist. Change the tempo. And voila: you've ended up with something that manages to be both comforting, comprehensible and accessible without seeming like a complete clone of all that has come before. Of course, as time passes, such variations are more difficult to accomplish: how many new ways are there going to be of saying 'amber' or 'jasmine' or 'musk'? Patricia De Nicolaï is clearly unafraid of such olfactory challenges, because the subject of her latest effort is another one of those super-ubiquitous scent materials: rose.

Thursday, June 1, 2017

Luxury Perfumes - Persolaise On Fashionbeans

image: Fashionbeans

Male grooming expert and award-winning writer Lee Kynaston has just published a piece on Fashionbeans about 'luxury' perfumes for men. It features a few contributions from me, so if you'd like to read it, please click here.

Persolaise

Friday, May 26, 2017

Persolaise Love At First Scent Episode 3 On YouTube


Episode 3 of my Love At First Scent series is now on YouTube, so you can watch it either by clicking above or going to the YouTube site (please click here). In this instalment I covered the brand new Oud Minerale from Tom Ford, Aromatics Elixir Premier Edition Prestige from Clinique, Flower Eau De Lumiere from Kenzo, the beautiful Naias from Sammarco and Ambre Royal from Ormonde Jayne. Can you tell which one was my favourite?

The original video is still on Facebook (click here), which is where you'll find the comments left by viewers during the live stream.

Persolaise 

Friday, May 19, 2017

Persolaise Sixty Second Scents: CK All from Calvin Klein (Alberto Morillas & Harry Fremont; 2017)


Do we need another flanker to CK One? Turns out that we do. Here's my Sixty Second Scents review of the brand new CK All, put together by Alberto Morillas and Harry Fremont. To watch the video on the YouTube site, please click here.

Oh, and a quick reminder: if you're free at around 5 pm (UK time) on Sunday - Friday 21st May - please tune in to my Facebook page (click here) for the next instalment of Love At First Scent.

Persolaise

Thursday, May 18, 2017

Live Coverage Of 2017 Fragrance Foundation UK Awards - But Will It Be Twitter Or Facebook?


By the time this post pops up I'll be on the way to London for tonight's Fragrance Foundation UK Awards ceremony. I hope to bring you live coverage of the event, but as I write these words, I don't know if I'll be using Facebook Live or Twitter. My preference would be the former, but it requires a strong mobile data signal, so if the technology lets me down, I'll revert to Twitter and the #TFFAwardsUK hashtag (see the widget below). Whatever happens, I'm sure you'll all find out who the winners are.

And speaking of Facebook Live, please joint me for the next instalment of Love At First Scent this Sunday, 21st May, at around 5 pm UK time. You should be able to watch it on my Facebook page (please click here).

Persolaise


Wednesday, May 17, 2017

Coming On Sunday: Love At First Scent Episode 3

You have been told

All being well, this Sunday, 21st May 2017, at around 5 pm UK time, I hope to broadcast another Facebook Live stream: the third episode of my Love At First Scent series. One of the goodies I'm hoping to unwrap is an exciting new release from Clinique. And if the postal service doesn't let me down, I should also be able to present the latest Private Blend from Tom Ford. Fingers crossed! I hope you can all make it. (UPDATE: The Private Blend has arrived... and it's all I can do to stop myself from spraying it!)

While I'm in social media promotion mode, I should also mention that I hope to bring you live coverage of Thursday night's Fragrance Foundation UK Awards. For more info, please look out for a post that's scheduled to pop up tomorrow (ie Thursday) at 10 am UK time.

Persolaise

Friday, May 12, 2017

Persolaise Review: Azurée D'Or from Estée Lauder (2017)


It's hard not to succumb to a sense of ennui at the interminable parade of flankers presented to us by mainstream brands these days. But when a company leaves a gap of almost 50 years between a perfume's initial release and the appearance of its first bona fide follow-up, you can't help but experience a measure of curiousity. Cue: Azurée D'Or, the brand new companion to Azurée, which has been in Estée Lauder's catalogue since 1969. (Okay, strictly speaking, we did have a coconut-heavy, limited edition in 2007, but that was very short-lived and can probably be pushed to one side for the sake of today's argument.) A span of almost half a century provides a compelling opportunity to consider how certain scent codes have changed. In other words: how do we alter the style of a late 60s leather composition to bring it in line with contemporary tastes? In this case, the answer would seem to be: flush the toilet.

Wednesday, May 10, 2017

Persolaise Love At First Scent Episode 2 Is Now On YouTube


Last Friday's episode of Love At First Scent is now on YouTube, so you can watch it either by clicking above or going to the YouTube site (please click here). I had great fun with this particular broadcast, not least when we touched on the subject of Bat from Zoologist and I got some chuckle-raising comments from viewers. Amongst the other perfumes I sniffed were: Persian Saffron from Zegna, Gelsomini Di Capri from Carthusia and the gorgeous new Ylang Ylang from E Coudray.

The original video is still on Facebook (click here), which is where you'll find the comments left by viewers during the live stream.

Persolaise 

Thursday, May 4, 2017

Persolaise Sixty Second Scents: Mon Guerlain From Guerlain (Thierry Wasser; 2017) + Facebook Live Reminder


Next up in my series of Sixty Second Scents reviews is one of the most anticipated releases of the year, Thierry Wasser's Mon Guerlain for Guerlain. To watch the video on the YouTube site, please click here.

And if you're free at around 3 pm (UK time) tomorrow - Friday 5th May - please tune in to my Facebook page (click here) for the next instalment of Love At First Scent.

Persolaise

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